Tanzania seems to exist in a perpetual state of construction—growth everywhere, yet little urgency to finish.
The roads, winding through the country’s nearly one million square kilometers, rarely stay intact for more than a mile or two before dissolving into crumbly asphalt, rutted dirt, and improvised detours. When I asked our guides why so many roads and bridges remained incomplete, the answer was always the same: there was always more work to be done, but finishing was more a suggestion. Even when new bridges were poured, the roads leading to them often weren’t connected. And so traffic simply diverted down embankments into the rocky, clay-baked riverbeds below, scrambling back up to reconnect with the road on the other side.
Minibuses and motorcycles weave between brightly painted lorries. Herds of safari-spec Land Cruisers, decked out in khaki-paint, engine snorkels, roof racks, and rail lights, carry tourists to the dozen-plus national parks. Pedestrians are a constant along the shoulder—women balancing impossible loads on their heads, men dressed in secondhand leather jackets despite the tropical heat, school children in blue and white uniforms, Maasai boys wrapped in red checkered shukas.
The roadside air hangs heavy with acrid smoke from burning trash and diesel fumes. Rows of corn and sunflower flanking either side are blanketed in red clay dust. And even when you find a smooth stretch of tarmac, it’s peppered with “sleeping policemen”—speed bumps so aggressively large you’d swear you hit a sleeping hippopotamus driving over them.
Case in point, our bus ride from Moshi to Dar es Salaam was a 540 kilometer trek, a little less than the distance between Los Angeles and Sacramento. It took 14 hours. I’ve easily gotten to Sacramento in half that time.
But that bus ride gave me time to think. I was traveling with my daughter—freshly turned 18, and weeks away from leaving for college. We’d planned the trip together as a graduation gift. I was giddy in anticipation of getting almost three weeks with her all to myself. In that moment, she had headphones on, lost in her music while I was left sharing her with 40 other sweaty, fragrant travelers on a bus without air conditioning.
In the last several years, my wife and I have been doing a lot of “infrastructure” work while raising a protoadult. Supporting her academics, listening to life ideas (some brilliant, some… less so), commiserating on the jaw-dropping financials of college, and periodically attempting to have some fun together.
Parenting feels a lot like being the urban planner drawing the blueprints for a city—bridges, roads, utilities—all the while knowing you won’t be the one to build it. You hope your design matters, but the next generation will ultimately be the ones who construct this metropolis.
That, of course, doesn’t mean our efforts don’t matter. Despite being one of the most thankless jobs, parenting has rewarded me with at least a handful of memories I might consider success. I mean, I have three kids so…law of averages.
There was a conversation that could have turned heated, but instead ended without conflict. When I held my tongue about a dubious decision, only to watch her come to the same conclusion a few days later. Standing firm even when it felt like too much, and then watching her pull through intact.
But more often than not, parenting feels a lot like building the bridges across Tanzania. Thoughtful, well-designed, but disconnected, ignored, and unused, maybe for years. Maybe forever. Sometimes bridges are built before the need exists.
That said, I would like to think that when the floods come—when life demands it—those unused bridges will matter. When the rain starts pouring, and the waters rise, some quick work will be done to connect those bridges to the main road, and the dangers will flow safely underneath.
The truth is, we can only prepare our children for the disasters we can anticipate. And today, I feel like there are so many new dangers out there that my infrastructure might already be outdated, useful for a season or two before it’s replaced or abandoned. Sure, I can build a few bridges for her, but at some point I have to step back so that she can take her own detours.
On that long, sweltering bus ride, I realized my daughter already had resilience in spades. Once she shook off the culture shock of our arrival, she adapted faster than I did. She leaned into the discomfort, asked questions, kept moving forward. Even on the Fourth of July, when homesickness hit so hard it made her ill, she woke the next day eager to make up for lost time. And then–despite all that–all that resilience, she still asked for my sweater, rolled it up, and leaned against my shoulder to fall asleep. My favorite part of the entire trip.
I don’t know if I’ve taught her everything she needs before she heads across the country. I worry I haven’t given her enough—enough love, enough wisdom, enough reasons to check in on us occasionally. And I know life will never quite be the same.
But maybe that’s the point
Not every bridge is finished, yet people still find a way across. That’s all I can hope for.
More Travel Tips for Tanzania
Go on Safari
The safari experience is required when visiting Tanzania. But, boy can it be expensive! Some outfits can charge more than $1,000 a day! If you’re looking for an affordable option without compromising quality, consider a tent safari. This isn’t glamping. You’re in a tent on a mat, but it saves a ton of money. I highly recommend Suricata Safaris. At about $160 per person per day, they were the most economical option I found, yet still had nicer food and guides than several higher-end options. We chose their five-day package, but unless you’re the type who loves going to the zoo two days in a row, 3–4 days is plenty.
Packing Tips
Pack light, but not without a sweater. Even if you’re not hiking Kilimangaro, much of Northern Tanzania is about 3,000 feet of elevation, making it cooler than most travelers expect. Morning temperatures can dip below 50°F (10°C), so pack a fleece and warm hat, and dress in layers. You’ll appreciate it on those early morning game drives.
Eat Local and Save Money
In tourist areas, restaurants often cater to European tastes and can be up to 10 times more expensive than local spots. Step just a few streets away and you’ll find neighborhood restaurants serving authentic Tanzanian dishes at a fraction of the price. Our favorite meals were the ones on the streets. For what it’s worth, we didn’t hear of any incidents of food poisoning while on our trip.
Best Beaches in Zanzibar: Skip Nungwi, Try East Coast
If you want nightlife, cheap resorts, and a party vibe, Nungwi on the north coast of Zanzibar delivers—but it’s heavily developed, with hotels and restaurants built right up to the tide line. This means very little open beach to enjoy. We found ourselves alone on the wide, white beaches along the east coast of Zanzibar, where towns like Matemwe or Kilimajuu offer more space and privacy. If you do find yourself in Nungwi and don’t mind a DJ soundtrack while soaking up some rays, consider a private beach clubs. We went to Nanasi two days in a row and it was worth it.
Learn Some Swahili
Tanzanians are incredibly friendly, and showing an effort with the language adds warmth to every interaction. Even a few phrases of Swahili like asanti sana (“thank you very much”) can make a big difference in connecting with locals. At the very least, rewatch The Lion King before you go—you’ll be surprised how much Swahili you already “know.” Simba means lion, rafiki means friend, pumbaa means foolish, and yes, they even say hakuna matata.
Download Bolt
I’ll admit, I was a bit surprised by how much the Internet has taken over travel in East Africa. This includes local transportation. They may not have Uber, but many large cities have a similar app called Bolt which works with local taxis and three-wheeled tuktuk-like bajajs. The app helped us explore more of these frenetic cities by taking out the guess work of taxi fares and traveling after dark. If you’re nervous about sharing a credit card, you can set up your account for cash only. Just make sure you have exact change.
One More Thing
Take this quick 5-minute reader survey and you’ll be entered to win my favorite kitchen tool: the Victorinox 8" Chef’s Knife. It’s the one I reach for every day, and I think you’ll love it too.
P.S. If you can’t access the survey, just hit reply—I read every email and will send you a direct link.
Let’s Stay Connected
📱 Follow along on Instagram and TikTok for video content, reels, and behind-the-scenes thoughts. I’m also on Facebook and LinkedIn.
🎧 Like the podcast? Please consider leaving a review wherever you listen. It helps so much.
✍🏼 Say hi on Substack Notes—I’m going to be posting more here about my daily reflections and thoughts on writing.
💬 Join me in Chat. It’s a space just for subscribers, kind of like a group text for this community. Download the app, tap the Chat icon (it looks like two speech bubbles at the bottom), and find the latest “Enlightened Omnivore” thread.
Beautiful tapestry of travel and parenthood.
Another keeper. Great reflections on being a parent. Since I am much later in life than you, I can attest that what you wrote is true. :)